Skin tumors are most common in older dogs, but aren't always cancerous. In cats, however, these types of tumors are almost always malignant. Always have lumps or irregular growth, no matter how small, checked by your veterinarian.

Cancer of the mouth and nose are also more common in dogs than cats. Masses on the gums or inside the nose of your pet are cause for concern. Many swellings are malignant, so early aggressive treatment is essential. Bleeding from the nose, difficulty breathing, difficulty eating or facial swelling may also occur. Seek veterinary care if any of these symptoms are present.

Mammary and testicular tumors are curable with surgery. As much as 50% of tumors in dogs and 96% of these tumors in cats are malignant, especially in males with retained testicles and females that have had even one heat cycle. Early spaying and neutering your pets greatly reduces the risk of these cancers. Hard, painful masses and swelling of the mammary glands can be an indication of mammary tumors.

Lymphomas are characterized by enlargement of one or many lymph nodes in the body. A virus, like feline leukemia causes most of these cancers in cats. It is the most responsive tumor to chemotherapy in dogs. If untreated, the average survival time tends to be around 2-4 months. If treated, it can be more around 1-1.5 years. Symptoms may not be present, but can include swelling of the nodes, unusual behavior signaling pain and decreased appetite.

Abdominal/Gastrointestinal tumors can also include major organ tumors. Most of these tumors are not easily detected until they are very large and causing abdominal enlargement, weight loss or vomiting. Irregular blood work results done by your veterinarian may lead him to performing an endoscopy or x-ray to determine if a tumor is present. Tumors of the stomach and intestines are sometimes operable, while cancers growing on major organs often are not.

Bone cancers or osteosarcomas are very aggressive,often causing lysis, or disintegration of the bone. The common symptoms of bone cancers, lameness and stiffness, are often mistaken as arthritis or soft tissue injury and can go undetected for some time. Because of this, treatment is usually not effective.

The American Veterinary Medical Association lists the following as the most common signs of cancer in pets:

• abnormal swellings that persist or continue to grow

• sores that do not heal

• weight loss

• bleeding or discharge from any body opening

• offensive odor

• difficulty eating or swallowing

• hesitance to exercise or loss of stamina

• persistent lameness or stiffness

• difficulty breathing, urinating or defecating. Keep in mind that many of these symptoms are also seen with noncancerous conditions.

  If in doubt, see your veterinarian. Most cancers are treatable to some extent if diagnosed early and treated accordingly.

   

  FELINE LOWER URINARY TRACT DISEASE AND FELINE UROLITHIASIS

  
  The feline lower urinary tract disease is one of the most common reasons for cats to be presented to veterinary hospitals. Both sexes are affected but only male cats tend to develop obstruction. Typical signs in non-obstructed cats include abnormal urination, painful urination, and blood in the urine and urination in inappropriate places.

  When complete urethral obstruction occurs, there may be frequent unsuccessful attempts to urinate. The cat may frequently lick the penis, and will be very painful when picked up from the ground, or when the abdomen is palpated. Cats become progressively more depressed, then comatose, and finally die if left untreated after 2-4 days. Death is due to dehydration, electrolyte derangements, and an accumulation of metabolic waste products. The causes of lower urinary tract inflammation can be conveniently divided into mineral-related causes. Mineral-related causes. Cats are capable of concentrating urine at high specific gravities. At these concentrations, feline urine is extremely supersaturated with respect many minerals, especially struvite, and there is a great tendency for struvite precipitation even in the absence of urinary tract infection. Mucus-crystal plugs, uroliths (bladder stones), and crystalluria are the three main forms of mineral related causes of urinary tract infection and obstruction in cats.

  Non-mineral related causes include bacterial urinary tract infection and tumors of the bladder. In the past, there has been tendency to approach all cats with feline lower urinary tract disease similarly with respect to clinical management. However, there is a real need to investigate the etiology of the problem in individual cats for that management can be more effective and w can come to a better understanding of the syndrome.

  Diagnosis of non-obstructed and obstructed cats should include a urinalysis and culture and sensitivity to determine if bacterial infection is involved. The best way to obtain a urine sample for analysis is cystocentesis (urine collected by the use of a needle place in the urinary bladder) since this is a sterile sample. Urine can usually be collected by caging the cat without a litter box for 2-3 hours. In obstructed cats, which are considered an emergency, urine will be collected once urethral catheterization has been completed. An appropriate drug can be selected on the basis of the genus of the infecting bacteria. Treatment should continue at leas one week after resolution of blood in the urine. Successful cure of an episode of urinary tract infection is best demonstrated by performing a urine culture 7-10 days after completing antimicrobial therapy. For obstructed cats, treatment consists of urethral catheterization followed by supportive treatment to cure kidney damage. Antibiotics are usually prescribed for 7-14 day and an acidic diet is usually recommended.

  Ehrlichiosis

  
  The word alone is enough to make veterinarians shudder.Canine ehrlichiosis is a relatively common and potentially deadly blood disease that is caused by the rickettsial organism Ehrlichia Canis (E. canis). E. canis is an organism most commonly carried by ticks, particularly the brown dog tick and the deer tick. For this reason, ehrlichiosis occurs anywhere the tick occurs. At present, it has been reported worldwide and in U.S. states, with the southeastern and south central states being the most heavily affected. For years canine ehrlichiosis has baffled veterinarians and pet owners because of the difficulty in diagnosis. Dogs may not present with clinical signs for months or even years after exposure. If clinical signs are present at all, however, it can still be extremely hard to diagnose due to the wide range of symptoms that can occur. Dogs infected with this organism can be lethargic, lose weight and can become anemic. Other clinical signs may include swollen lymph nodes, muscular or joint soreness, and blood in the urine, seizures and fever, depending on the stage of the disease the dog may be in. The first stage, or the acute stage, includes nonspecific clinical signs which may be mild and often pass unnoticed by the dog owner. Some dogs exhibit depression, fever and have a decreased appetite. Upon physical examination the veterinarian may detect an enlarged spleen and lymph nodes. Most dogs will spontaneously 'recover' form the acute state. The don not necessarily eliminate the organism from their system, however, and thus enter the second state of infection. The second sate is called the sub clinical stage, meaning there are no signs of illness. Serologic testing is the only method capable of detecting infection during this stage. This stage may last for an indefinite period. Treatment at this sage is vital in order to prevent progress of the disease. The third stage, the chronic stage, is the most serious. Signs include lethargy, fever, inappetence, weight, bleeding tendencies and ultimately death. Attempts to treat in this stage are often unsuccessful.

  As with most diseases, the old adage about "an ounce of prevention" holds true. With so many safe and effective tick control products available from your veterinarian, Ehrlichiosis can be kept away forever.

  Rescuing a Stray

  
  Maybe you've seen him for days, wandering the streets and looking lost and hungry. Or maybe she just showed up in your back yard. If you've found a stray cat or dog, what do you do? Get the animal out of danger. Do not let the animal continue to roam the streets. If you cannot take him/her into your home, take the animal to the local shelter where he/she is safe from the elements and injury from cars, humans, other animals -- where he/she cannot reproduce, bringing in more unwanted animals to face a similar fate. In many cases you may not be able to, or want to, catch the stray. Let your animal control officer help. Unfamiliar animals can be unpredictable and may carry illnesses that are contagious to the other pets in your household. Protect yourself and your animals. Keep the stray separate from your pets and other family members until you can assess its personality and health. The animal may be hurt, undernourished, traumatized, or sick. Wash your hands after handling the animal to avoid carrying any diseases to your own pets. Watch out for fleas, earmites, and other parasites that could be transmitted to your pets or your family. Make sure all your animals are up to date with vaccinations. If you can, take him or her to a vet for a checkup and some basic care. Remember that this animal may have been wandering the streets for some time and may need special care even if it appears healthy. Unfortunately, finding strays with critical or life-threatening injuries happens also. In these instances, do not allow the animal to suffer. Calling animal control immediately and reporting the nature of the injuries should ensure that animal is tended to as a priority. Also, a local veterinarian should be willing to offer at least minimal emergency care until an animal control officer arrives. Put the word out. Whether you choose to foster the stray or take it to the shelter, help improve its chances of getting back to its home. Contact your local animal shelter and humane organizations and give them a description of the animal and where he/she was found. Don't give out too much information, however. You'll want to keep at least one part of the description secret so the true owner will be able to identify their lost pet. Put up posters in the neighborhood and in your local supermarket, veterinarian's office, and library. Advertise in the local newspapers - sometimes they allow free advertisements for found animals. In our area, the shelters can often connect you with local rescue organizations where you may find a listing for the missing animal. Make him part of the family. If you have fostered the animal for a few weeks and have had no luck finding this stray's home, you have an important decision to make. Finding him a good home can be difficult, but be choosey. Find a home that suits his personality, as well. A good match with a new family will lower the chances of him being taken to a shelter in the future. Having him spayed or neutered and vaccinated increases his appeal to others and ensures his continued good health. This is also true if you decide to keep him. By taking him to the vet, you are also able to begin medical records for him with your name, address and phone number. Most importantly, put tags on your new pet! You don't want it to end up on the streets again.

   

  Toxoplasmosis

  
  So you're gong to have a baby?! Time to watch what you eat and drink, get lots of rest, buy lots of new clothes and toys and oh yeah, get rid of that cat. Everyone knows that cats can cause toxoplasmosis and that they and pregnant women should not be in the same country much less the same house. And once the baby comes, cats can be more dangerous. Right!

  Wrong! Current data suggestes that ownership of pet cats does not increase the risk of toxoplasmosis. Toxoplasmosis is a disease caused by a protozoan parasite, Toxoplasma Gondii. The disease is very widespread; it is estimated that over 40% of all amaericans have been infected with the parasite at some time. Although, cats are the only animals which harbor the adult parasite in their intestinal tract. Ingesting oocysts (the eggs) infects humans, sheep, cows, pigs and goats. Infected cats shed oocysyts in their stool for only 2 to 3 weeks, afterwards becoming immune and rarely shedding the harmful eggs again. However, the eggs hatch and multiply within the muscle tissue where they remain, in many cases, for the rest of the animal's life. These infected "food" animals are considered a major source of toxoplasmosis. People who handle raw meat, including sausage and hamburgers, or who eat raw or undercooked meats are more likely to develop toxoplasmosis by ingesting some of the eggs that way than from owning a cat.

  Everyone should wear gloves when handling the litter pan or cat feces, regardless of pregnancy. As a precautionary measure, pregnant women should not handle the litter pan at all, and should wash their hands thoroughly after handling the cat. Putting the cat outside is not a good option either, as toxoplasmosis is much more likely to occur in outdoor cats as it is transmitted to the cat through hunting of small animals. However, if the cat is outdoors already, pregnant women are sure to wear gloves while gardening, especially in area, which might be used as a litter box. There are tests available that your veterinarian can do to see if your cat is carrying the Toxoplasma antibodies, however precautions should be taken regardless.

  As for that new baby, well forget those horror stories about cats and babies. Cats suck out a baby's breath, cats intentionally smother newborns.... the list goes on and on. Often well-meaning friends and relatives warn expectant parents to give the cat away or keep away from your new arrival. Yet neither is necessary. With some tips and planning your new baby and your cat can have a safe healthy relationship. Much of the preparation should be done as soon as you know your expecting to ensure a healthy pregnancy and a healthy cat.

  Before the baby arrive have the cat checked by your veterinarian. A clean bill of health means that the baby will not be exposed to viruses, skin parasites and intestinal parasites. Make sure all vaccinations are up to date and perhaps have the vet test the cat's temperament and tolerance. It is good to know how the cat acts when under some stress, as a new baby does offer quite a bit of it at times. Also, allow your cat to be exposed to people of all ages over the course of the pregnancy. This socialization should help the cat prepare for the new arrival. Keep in mind that you will not be able to give your cat the same amount of attention you once did after the baby arrives, so find a special time in each day that is for the cat. Even if it's for a short period of time.

  Once the baby arrives, let the cat and the baby get to know each other gradually. Allow the cat to be as curious as you fell comfortable with, but don't "scat" them away, as this can make the cat feel pushed away. Teach your cat certain areas that it is and isn't allowed to roam or sleep. Naturally, the crib and where the baby lays are off limits to avoid allergens and parasites. Although there is no evidence of the truth in the old wives tales about smothering or sucking the breath from babies, it is not a good idea to allow the cat to sleep in the nursery. Again, this could lead to allergies, accidental scratches or improper sleeping posture for the baby, if the cat sleeps in the crib. Also, do not allow the cat to play with the baby toys, but offer the cat some of it's own. As the child grows, teach the child where they can and cannot roam. The cat too must have certain area where it feels it can be free of a child. Otherwise, it may retaliate with aggression or inappropriate behavior. Remember to always teach your child the importance of being kind to our animals and the proper way to handle them.

  With these tips your cat will be happy to know there truly is no need to get rid of him. A little planning and precaution can go along way, but the love of a cat can go just as far.

  HOLIDAY TIPS

  To Fluffy or Fido, the holiday season doesn't mean much. They feel the excitement and smell the food, but don't understand why one Thursday or Sunday should be different from any other. But, they do often feel the stress of the season, just like people do. Because animals are creatures of habit, anything that you do that will disturb the routine is going to be stressful on the average pet. Being boarded, taking a trip, strangers coming and going, seasonal plants and decorations and holiday goodies can all turn a "merry" into a "scary" Christmas.

  To make the season safe for our four-legged friends, we must take precautions. The following is list of things you can do to prevent holiday pet "disasters."

  • When boarding a pet, plan in advance. Keep in mind that most boarding facilities are booked far in advance, as the holiday season tends to be the busiest time. Be sure to take all of your pet's medications with him and leave clear instructions with the facility. It is also important to arrange for emergency care with your veterinarian should anything happen.

  • Before you travel, it is always a good idea to take your pet for a "check up" with your veterinarian. Health certificates are required for flight an in most cases, must be dated within ten days of the flight. Some pets travel easier with sedatives, which your veterinarian should be able to provide. Again, be sure to take along all medications. Don't forget to check tags and collars on your pet should you be separated.

  • While entertaining guests, remember that a normally friendly cat or dog may be less than willing to deal with enthusiastic children or rooms full of unfamiliar people. Provide a quiet area for your pet to retreat to when festivities get too stressful. Also, make sure your pets have collars and tags on in case of escape.

  • Many of those beautiful plants associate with the season are also extremely poisonous to pets. Poinsettia, mistletoe and amaryllis, when eaten could lead to severe gastric distress and even death. The best approach is to keep these plants out of your pet's reach.

  • Ribbons, tinsel, ornaments, and yarn are all great for decorating, but potential hazards to our pets. They are enticing to cats especially and are thin and sharp enough to wrap around your pet's intestines or ball up in the stomach. Also, your puppy or kitten may try to chew on lights or electrical cords. Safeguard against this by securing loose cords out of the way.

  • The Christmas tree presents it's own set of hazards. Tree-climbing cats or a large dog with a happy tail can easily knock over the tree. It is a good idea to anchor the top of the tree to the wall using strong cord or rope. Also, preservatives used in the water in the tree stand can cause gastric upsets, so be sure it is inaccessible to the pet or that the preservatives used in the water in the tree stand can cause gastric upsets, so be sure it is inaccessible to the pet or that the preservatives are not used. Avoid sugar or aspirin in the water, as well. Finally, pine needles, when ingested, can puncture your pet's intestines if sharp enough. Check around the tree frequently and vacuum when necessary.

  • As always, never feed your pets any table scraps, alcoholic beverages, bones or chocolate. All can cause severe gastrointestinal problems or can lead to pancreatitis or even death. One tablespoon of alcohol could be lethal to an animal and chocolate contain theobromine, a compound similar to caffeine that is toxic to dogs. Maintain your pet's regular diet, and caution visitors again giving them any "special treats."

    The holidays are indeed a time for giving, but as you can tell there are many things that you cannot share with your pets. Once you are aware of the hazards, a little precaution and prevention will make holiday a happy time for everyone.

     

    Flea Products, which ones work?

    
    Today I'll write about a topic that even makes us pet owners scratch our heads, flea products, which ones work and which ones are safe for our pets and family. The first three products are great at killing fleas and preventing flea infestations. They are non-toxic to mammals so are safe for pets and the people who come in contact with them. They are applied onto the skin on the back of the neck so the animal can't turn around and lick it since it has a bad taste. Advantage (commercial with singing puppies and kittens) is good for fleas but can be bathed off with most shampoos (including baby shampoos). I tend to use it on cats since we don't bath them as often. It can be used on puppies 7 weeks and older and on kittens 8 weeks and older.

    The second great flea product is Frontline, Top Spot. In dogs, one application can kill fleas up to 3 months and ticks for one month and one month for fleas and ticks on cats. This product can be used on puppies 10 weeks and older, and kittens 12 weeks and older. Because this product gets in the oil glands in the skin it replenishes itself almost immediately after bathing so it can be used wth most shampoos. Though this is true, I can only recommend shampoos made for pets. These flea products do such a great job that I don't normally recommend flea and tick shampoos, but instead advise owners to purchase a nice maintenance shampoo that won't dry out the dog or cat's skin. Also, Top Spot kills ticks, but they don't always fall off but will shrivel up like a raisin in 24 hours. If you find a tick, I recommend removing it right away, and if you don't know how, find somebody who does. If it is only one or two, I suspect most veterinary establishments will remove it for free as a professional courtesy, especially if you are a client in good standing. Frontline also comes as a spray but at arecommended dose of one pump of spray per pound of pets body weight.

    For larger animals this can be quite tiring for the hand and it smells like alcohol, so apply it outside.

    The third product is Revolution ("I will," commercials). This can be used on puppies and kittens 6 weeks and older. It is a new product and one I haven't used as much, it claims to prevent hookworms on cats and dogs, kills fleas and certain species of ticks along with other benefits that are not a concern of this column today.

    Program is another flea product that comes combined with a heartworm preventative for dogs called Sentinel. Program by itself can be used in dogs and cats, and in cats is available as a 6 month injectable. The female flea bites your pet, ingests the product, and then none of her eggs will hatch. It will not kill adult fleas or have any affect on larvae or eggs already maturing in your yard or house. The company did come out with a product called Capstar which is a pill that kills any fleas on your pet but lasts less than 24 hours. It can be used on puppies or kittens 4 weeks and older, greater than 2 pounds in weight. Both Program and Capstar can be used with any of the first three mentioned products. All of the above products should be obtainable from your local vet and are given monthly except Capstar. These products work well and are worth the small amount of extra money to keep your pet and family members free of fleas.

    My momma has always told me if you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all. Well, I won't name names, but you as pet product buying consumers need to know this. Many if not all of the over the counter flea products you buy in the grocery stores, feed stores, and so on, contain ingredients that can be harmful to your pet especially cats. Synthetic pyrethroids like permethrin and phenothin are the active ingredients which can be toxic to cats, especially kittens.

    Even if applied to dogs and the cats rub on the dog, toxicity can occur. The other problem is that most of these pyrethroids are broken down by sunlight so unless combined with other products, the effectiveness is short term especially for the outdoor pets.

    Please think twice about using these store-bought products especially in young or deblitated animals. For any type of product applied on or given to your pet, always read the label and consult your veterinarian or call the 1-800 number on the package if you have any questions before using it. I hope this has been educational and for more information on any of these products, please speak to your local veterinarian.

    Time Invested In Your Puppy Is Well Worth It!

    
    Getting a new puppy is a very fun and exciting time. Most people remember that puppies need vaccines as well as good quality puppy food and water. One thing most people don't realize is that puppies need your time. The time you invest training your puppy will pay off 100-fold when it turns into a well-trained dog. Here are some training activities I recommend every owner do with their new puppy.

    1. Crate Training. This applies to all dogs who are not 100 percent outside. Get a crate or kennel large enough for him to stand and turn around (if it's too big, take up the extra room with boxes). Place blankets and toys in the crate. This will be his "den" where he will spend all of his time when you are not at home or cannot supervise him. Let him outside every hour for two minutes to go to the bathroom. If he urinates or has a bowel movement, give him praise, "Good Dog" and a treat. If he does not "go," put him back in the crate until the next hour. This system helps your puppy to associate going to the bathroom outside and getting treats (positive reinforcement) instead of having accidents in the house. As he gets used to this, slowly increase the time periods in the crate -- go outside every two hours, then three hours, etc. Do not leave your puppy in the crate for more than six hours at a time.

    2. Accidents. If your puppy has an accident in the house, remember they are learning. If you don't catch them "in the act," do not punish by yelling or hitting them. They cannot associate the accident in the house with why they're getting yelled at. This will only frighten your puppy. If you catch them while they're urinating or having a bowel movement, raise your voice and say "no," lift the puppy and carry them outside to finish. They may have a few accidents in the house while they are learning and it's ok.

    3. Socialize. Your puppy will become very attached to you and your family but it's important to expose them to new people too. This way when you have a guest at your house, or they go the vet's office, they won't fear all new people and possible bite them. Taking them to parks, the beach, or even PetSmart once a week is a good way to start socializing them. Be sure all of their vaccines are up to date first so they don't get illnesses from other dogs.

    4. Paws and Ears. Play with their paws and ears on a daily basis. That way when you need to clean their ears or clip their nails they don't mind when they're older.

    Preventative Measures, VACCINATIONS!
    I'm sure all of you are familiar with the show "Survivor." Imagine yourself in the show with little amenities and depending on your health and physical strength to get through. Then imagine that you cannot fight off any infection, there you are on a deserted island completely exposed to everything. That's what it's like for a puppy or kitten. Puppies and kittens are born with immune systems that can't protect themselves until they are about 16 weeks old.

    An owner can have the nicest home, fluffiest doggie bed and lots of toys, but without vaccinations, that puppy may well be on a deserted island waiting for the next episode of the show.

    When puppies and kittens are born, they are usually nursing off their mother's milk. This milk supplies them with immunity they need to help fight off infections. Most puppies stop nursing at about 6-8 weeks of age, just when their own immune systems start to take over. Their immature immune system cannot yet fully protect them. That's why your veterinarian recommends starting to vaccinate your pet at 6-8 weeks of age. These vaccines must be "boostered" or given again every 3 weeks until they are 16 weeks old, the age their immune system can protect themselves. Do you think that bringing your pet to the vet every 3 weeks for vaccines sounds expensive? Let me put it this way, do you run your car out of gas every week, then call a towing service to bring your car to a gas station to fill up? That would cost hundreds of dollars each week! I am sure that you fill your car with gas before you run out to prevent having to spend the extra time and money. Vaccinating your pet can be very similar. We recommend vaccinating your pet instead of waiting to see if they get sick. Going through an entire series of vaccines is much less expensive than hospitalizing them once.

    Now you may be asking, what are you vaccinating them against? Today, we'll talk about puppy vaccines. Parvo is a virus that is highly contagious for puppies to contract. They catch it from infected dogs and it quickly spreads through their body and attacks rapidly dividing cells, usually in the GI tract. An infected puppy will have severe vomiting and bloody diarrea, and will become very dehydrated. They feel too sick to eat or drink to replace the fluids they have lost. Many of these puppies may die if they are not hospitalized and treated by a veterinarian. This disease kills thousands of puppies every year and it can be completly prevented if your puppy is vaccinated. In the spring, we tend to see more puppies with parvo virus than any other time of year, so be careful and bring your puppy in for their vaccines.

    Distemper is a virus that is highly contagious to puppies and is very deadly. Puppies get this disease from other infected dogs and puppies. This disease affects almost every area of the body. Distemper virus will cause a puppy to have a fever which will go away, and then return for usually a week. After that, the virus infects the nasal passages, where it looks like they have a head cold with runny eyes and nose. They are very week and feel too sick to eat. Finally, the disease infects the nervous system (brain and spinal cord) where they may experience seizures and paralysis. It is rare that any puppy will live through the disease once it has infected the nervous tissue. Once again, this terrible disease can be completely prevented with a series of vaccines from your vet.

    Vaccines are not something to be taken lightly, they are vital to your puppy's health just like gas is to your car, one won't go far without the other.

    Degenerative Disc Disease

    
    Although fractures and dislocations of the spinal column can occur as a result of severe trauma, the most common cause of spinal cord disease in dogs is degenerative disc disease. Degenerative disc disease (DDD) occurs when an intervertebral disc breaks down. Intervertebral discs are small cartilage discs that separate the vertebrae of the spine. When a disc becomes diseased, either through injury or gradual degeneration, the soft center of these discs, called the nucleus pulposus, will protrude or herniate and put pressure on the spinal cord itself or the nerves that attach to the cord. The result can be pain, weakness, incoordination or paralysis.

    The pain may be fairly mild, with minimal symptoms, or severe enough to greatly limit the level of activity a dog can tolerate. DDD is usually characterized by difficulty in changing positions, from sitting or lying to standing. Climbing stairs, jumping, running, even moving at all can be difficult for dogs suffering with DDD. About 80% of degenerative discs occur in the lower back, affecting only the hind legs, with the remainder occurring in the neck.

    Your veterinarian usually can diagnose DDD based on the dogŐs history and findings of the physical exam. X-rays are helpful, but sometimes do not clearly identify the site of the degenerative disc. A myelogram, an x-ray taken after injecting a dye into the fluid around the spinal cord, is much more likely to show the exact location and severity of a herniated or ruptured disc. However, a myelogram can be costly and are not always available in your regular veterinarianŐs office.

    Most cases of disc disease will improve with medical treatment. This usually involves strict rest and drug therapy. Enforced rest can be accomplished by confinement in a small room or an airline kennel and is vital in reducing the inflammation and swelling of the spinal cord. Soft bedding should be used and exercise should be limited to short walks on a leash only. With treatment many dogs respond within a few days. Full recovery is not guaranteed, although mobility should improve with time. Recurrence is fairly common, and will be treated in much the same way as before. Surgery is usually reserved for the most severe cases, as it is a costly procedure and usually must be done within 48 hours of onset.

    If you suspect that your dog may be suffering from DDD, please consult your veterinarian. Disc degeneration is a normal part of the aging process and can affect any breed and any sex. Early detection and early treatment can save your dog a great deal of pain and discomfort.

    Obesity in Pets

    
    In the United States, as much as 45% of dogs and cats are obese. Obesity has become a major health issue in pets, especially those between 6 and 12 years of age. Overeating, eating foods too high in calories and fat, and a lack of exercise all contribute to obesity in pets.

    An animal is considered obese if its body weight exceeds the optimal weight by 20% or more. While many pets are obviously overweight, others may not appear to be obese to the untrained eye. However, you can evaluate an animal's body condition through physical examination. There are several areas of the dog or cat that you can look at to determine if it is at its ideal weight. First, feel the pet's ribs. You should be able to feel the ribs rather easily. There should, of course, be some fat over them, but each rib should be easily identified. If you can see the ribs without feeling, the pet is too thin. On the other hand, if you canŐt feel the ribs at all, your pet is overweight.

    Second, check the area near the base of the tail. There should be some fat covering here and, again, you should be able to feel the bones. If the bones are protruding and visually obvious, the pet is too thin. Not being able to feel the bones at all means your pet is overweight. The same test can be done for the spine, shoulders and hips, allowing for a small, natural amount of fat covering the bones.

    Now, look at your pet from above. It should have a definite waist behind the ribs. An extreme waist means the animal is underweight. If there is no waist, or even a wider area between the ribs and hips, the cat or dogs is seriously overweight.

    If after assessing your pet's condition, you find that it is overweight, consult your veterinarian for a suitable weight-reducing program for your animal. Obesity is a significant problem that can lead to major diseases including heart disease, diabetes, arthritis, liver disease, difficulty breathing, digestive disorders and a decreased quality and length of life. A diet lower in fat (with no human foods and few treats) and an increase in exercise could greatly reduce your pet's chances of developing serious medical conditions. By maintaining your pet at its optimal weight, you are not only giving it the ability to play, but the ability to breathe, as well. Those few extra pounds could lead to a lot of trouble, so see your veterinarian today.

    Bug Bites and your Pets

    
    Bugs, bugs, bugs! These days Florida seems to be crawling with bugs. No one is spared the annoyance of heartworm-spreading mosquitoes. Flea populations have increased due to our mild winters. Ticks, and all of the health hazards that accompany them, lurk in every backyard and many pets are losing fur because of demodex mites and scabies. Bees, wasps and other stinging insects account for their fair share of trips to the veterinarian, too. As if all of this weren't enough, there is another crawling danger..spiders.

    Worldwide there are over 30,000 species of spiders but only a few are potentially lethal. In the United States dangerous spiders include the Black Widow, the Brown Recluse, the Running Spider and the Black Jumping Spider. Bites from any of these spiders can cause skin irritation and nausea, but the bite of the Brown Recluse and the Black Widow is can be far more severe, even to our pets.

    The Brown Recluse (Loxosceles reclusa) is found primarily in the Southern United States and typically avoids daylight. It is tan in color, but is known for a brown distinctive violin pattern on its cephalothorax. The venom of the recluse is a dermonecrotic (attacks and kills skin cells) venom and is more potent than that of a rattlesnake's. Reactions can range from minor site irritation to widespread necrosis to death. Death from a Recluse bite is more frequent with pets because symptoms may be less evident. The initial bite is painless and often unnoticed, but within 12-24 hours a halo shaped wound will appear. The surrounding skin will often become necrotic causing a large, open wound similar to a burn that can take 6 or more months to heal. Other symptoms include fever, malaise and joint stiffness. Renal failure, convulsions and coma are also possible but less common. Pets can quickly slough the skin from the area and develop serious infections. Early treatment is the key for both humans and animals.

    The Black Widow Spider (Lactrodectus mactans) can be found throughout the United States. They are jet black with a globe shaped abdomen on which there is the notorious red hourglass. Black widows bite when their web is touched. The venom is a neurotoxin. In humans there is little local damage, usually only two red holes seen at the site. In pets, however, the bite could lead to an abscess and necrosis. Symptoms begin within minutes, peak 1 - 6 hours after the initial bite and can last 1 -2 days. Severe muscle cramping, joint stiffness and fatigue are the most common symptoms. Animals may have short periods of seizure-like behavior with longer periods of coma-like lethargy. They may also experience labored breathing or panting, tremors, nausea and vomiting. Although the Black Widows bite rarely leads to death early detection and treatment is vital.

    If you suspect a spider has bitten your pet, seek veterinary care immediately. Once diagnosed, treatment could include antivenin, antibiotics, pain relievers, hospitalization or surgery to repair the wound. Unlike fleas and ticks, there isn't a way to completely prevent spider bites. Carefully removing spider webs from your home and yard is a good start, however. It is important that you check your pet's sleeping and feeding areas regularly. Dispose of old lumber or woodpiles in your yard. Spray off the outside of your home often, particularly around windows where webs are most often built. Install screen doors and caulk holes to keep spiders outside. Most importantly, watch your pet closely. If your pet demonstrates any symptoms, no matter how slight, contact your veterinarian.

    Resolutions for the New Year

    
    Well, a new millennium is upon us with the promise of mind-boggling technological advances, cures for our, now, fatal diseases and a booming economy. It's also nearly that time again to make our New Year's resolutions.our promises to make changes in our lives and/or to improve the lives of others. This year should be no different. With hopes of a kinder, more humane millennium perhaps more will remember the animals in their resolutions this year. Here is a sample list of promises that will not only enrich the life of animals, but will enrich yours as well.

    Resolution #1: I will set aside more time to spend with my pet. I know that my pet needs exercise to remain healthy and attention to be happy. A few minutes more a day will greatly improve my pet's life and has been proven to lower my stress level.

    Resolution #2: I will provide my pet with shelter, food and water. The law requires that my pet is given these allowances, but I want to go a step further. I want my pet to have a comfortable, dry shelter out of the weather and safe from outside hazards. My pet will be fed the proper pet food; no human foods, as they are not formulated for my pets and can harm them. I will ensure that my pet always has fresh, clean water free of debris and algae.

    Resolution #3: I will take my pet to the veterinarian for regular check-ups. I am aware that it is vital that my pet receive all of its' vaccinations and medications as directed by my veterinarian. I will also take my pet immediately to the veterinarian if it becomes sick or injured.

    Resolution #4: I will not allow my pet to breed. By not sterilizing my pet I will be increasing the chance of him/her having testicular/mammary cancer. In fact, by not spaying a female before her first heat cycle, I may be increasing those odds by as much as 50%. I also realize that the only "life experience" that my children can gain from allowing my pet to breed will be that there just aren't enough homes for them all.

    Resolution #5: I will adopt a pet from a shelter. If I do intend to add a pet to my family soon, I will adopt from a shelter and save a life. If I purchase an animal from a pet shop there is the possibility that it may be from a puppy mill or similar kitten facility. I know that there are many great pets, including purebreds, waiting to join my family at the area shelter.

    Resolution #6: I will keep my pet in a fenced yard or indoors to keep it from roaming. I know that a pet that is allowed to roam is susceptible to injury, illness, starvation, theft and more. I know that this is a vital part of responsible pet ownership.

    Resolution #7: I will get involved! This year I will become a member of a humane organization. I will donate my time or resources to help the animal welfare cause. If I can end the suffering of one animal, I have made a difference.

    Resolution #8: I will report animal cruelty right away. I cannot "turn the other cheek" and hope it goes away. Animal neglect and abuse is usually ongoing and can turn into violence towards humans as well. My intervention may save a pet's life now and perhaps even numerous human lives later.

    Resolution #9: I will provide an environment that is safe for wildlife. I will pick up my litter as it may prove to be hazardous to wild animals. I will do my part to keep our waterways clean and our natural resources abundant. I will not take part in any cruel or immoral trapping or hunting practices. I will do my part in ensuring a home for our wildlife as well as our children to enjoy in the future.

    Resolution #10: I will educate my friends and family about the importance of these resolutions. By spreading the word, perhaps this new millennium will bring an era of good health, prosper and kindness to all living things.

    Feline Heartworm Disease

    
    If you own a dog, chances are you've heard so much about heartworm disease that you probably feel like a leading expert on the subject. You know about the risks, and the prevention, and the dangers to your dog. You have "Fido" tested for heartworms yearly and give him heartworm preventative as directed by your veterinarian. As a pet owner, you've got the whole heartworm thing figured out, right?

    Wrong! While your dog is being protected from the vicious heartworm cycle, your cat is still at risk. According to the American Heartworm Society, feline heartworm disease has been reported in 38 states in the U.S. A recent study evaluating cats in the Southeastern United States revealed an infection rate of 16%. However, the actual prevalence of FHD may be understated due to the spontaneous elimination of the parasite or acute death from the infection. All cats are at risk, regardless of age, sex, or whether they live indoors or not. In fact, the studies also found that 25-30% of the confirmed cases occurred in totally indoor cats.To help you understand the growing concern for feline heart disease, it may be necessary to go over the heartworm life cycle once more. In an affected occult heartworm positive animal, adult parasites, Dirofilaria immitis, occupy the right ventricle and pulmonary arteries. The female adults produce microfilariae (an embryonic stage of heartworms) which circulate in the bloodstream. Some of the microfilariae are ingested by female mosquitoes during blood feeding. In mosquitoes, microfilariae develop to the third larval stage. After 10-14 days the feeding mosquito can deposit the infected microfilariae on the skin of another animal. These can enter the body through the mosquito bite wound.

    The third-stage larvae molt to fourth stage larvae as early as 24 hours after infection. Fourth-stage larvae molt to fifth stage between 50 and 70 days after infection. These microfilariae eventually travel to the heart where they develop into adult heartworms. Within 3 months, the adult heartworms produce new microfilariae and the cycle begins all over.

    It is important to understand that while the cause of the disease remains the same, there are many significant differences in the characteristics of heartworm infection in cats and dogs. Detection of heartworm disease in cats is very difficult. Typically, there are only 1-3 adults in naturally affected cats because fewer larvae (L3) reach adulthood as compared to dogs. Microfilariae are also rarely discovered in infected cats because microfilaremia (the embryonic stage) only occurs for 1-2 months, usually 6-7 months after infection.As a result, many cases of FHD go undiagnosed until the cat becomes symptomatic or dies.

    Common symptoms include respiratory abnormalities, such as coughing and rapid or labored breathing, sporadic vomiting (often without eating), lethargy, and weight loss.These signs become most obvious when fifth-stage larvae reach the pulmonary arteries 5-6 months after the initial infection, or with the death of adult worms resulting in blocked arteries.

    A cat's small pulmonary arterial system predisposes cats to life threatening consequences from heartworm disease. Some cats may show no symptoms, while others may experience sudden respiratory distress and death. Unfortunately, there is no approved treatment for cats with heartworm disease as there is for dogs.

    Because of the risks of feline heartworm disease and the great difficulty in diagnosing it, why not play it safe and protect "Boots" the same way you so carefully do "Fido". Heartworm disease is not going to go away, but you can prevent it. See your veterinarian for more information and for cat heartworm preventative.You will feel better knowing both of your best friends are protected.